When I hiked the 100-plus mile Brecon Beacons trail across the hills of Wales a few years ago, I considered it a major achievement. However, it didn’t prepare me one whit for the Peruvian Andes. Distances covered at or close to sea level are almost insignificant when compared to hiking at high altitude. And the Inca Trail is nothing but high-in-the-sky altitude. The elevation begins at 8,500 feet and climbs to just shy of 14,000 feet. That’s 8.5 oxygen-deprived miles up. Despite having spent three days acclimatizing in a rather posh Cusco hotel, I quickly discovered that you don’t so much hike the Inca Trail as survive it. Come along for the ride – it will leave you equally breathless.
the inca trail
wish list: grub hub
Eight years in development, the Grub Hub provides a complete outdoor kitchen, including side tables for cooking and prep, an aluminum table that holds a two-burner camp stove, a molded back table for dining, tower organizer, all terrain tires, and a sink to make clean-up easy as it gets in the wild. The whole contraption sets up in just a few minutes and – even better – folds up into a backpack for easy portability. Light enough to haul across the Pembrokeshire Coast Path yet rugged enough to handle the Salcantay Route, I think I might need this for my next hiking adventure – because, you know, finding my way back to the Four Seasons can be grueling. Check out the unbelievably quick set-up HERE.
more than meets the eye
For a hiking trip there’s been a suspicious lack of physical activity noted on this site over the past two weeks, wouldn’t you say? Time to fix that today with a straight climb up highest hill on Mull. All mountains have a certain magnetic attraction for those who enjoying a good harrumph, but Ben More has more than you’d suspect. At 3,172 feet, the peak is a true beauty because every inch of it is climbed from sea level and that’s a rarity. Plus, the views from the top are spectacular. Beneath the summit are the glens and table-lands carved by retreating glaciers some 10,000 years ago. Eastwards across the sea are the serried mainland mountains; to the north, the sawtooth peaks of Rum and Skye; southwards, the Paps of Jura; and if you look westward on a clear day, you can almost see as far as Ireland. Bound by lochs on either side – and Iona and Staffa seemingly close enough to touch – the panorama is superb. (Double click each image for a greater sense of scale.) Many hikers mistakenly assume Ben More is a volcano. It is not, despite the picturesque “smoking” that often appears near the summit. In fact, it is a much rarer phenomenon: a highly magnetic mountain. Extruded 55 million years ago, the iron-rich basalt is so strongly magnetic that chippings will jump on to a proffered magnet. More importantly, compass readings can’t be trusted, particularly at the summit, which has been struck by lightning and remagnetized so often that readings vary enormously even within a few feet. Another surprise is the lack of a well-marked trail, which led to more than a few heated discussions on the extended hike up – all of which evaporated into thin air once we had summited and, more to the point, returned back to ground level unscathed.
have kilt, will travel
It should be a week of semi-sporadic postings as I’m off to the island of Mull in the Scottish Hebrides for a week of hiking, haggis, and (hopefully) abundant whiskey tasting. I don’t expect the internet to be terribly reliable; after all, I’m traveling to an island off the coast of an island – where the sheep population far outweighs the human one. Stay tuned and I’ll do my best. First stop: Glasgow.
it’s not unusual
Instead of the same old same old weekends this summer, what if you went for something a bit more memorable? B&Bs, for the most part, are the very definition of unusual. From Victorian and rustic to urban and Queen Anne, bed and breakfasts come in all sorts of quirky shapes and curious styles. Some even make a point of ratcheting up the unique factor: how about diving into breakfast on the deck of a tall ship or choo choo chewing the morning meal inside a former railroad caboose? Not only are there benefits to be had from wallet-friendly amenities like guest pantries stocked with free snacks. complimentary internet, and breakfast included, but you’ll also take home a  singular travel experience. Get ready for a summer of surprises with these five one-of-a-kind inns:
Featherbed Railroad Bed & Breakfast Resort  – Nice, CA: All aboard at this special, one-of-a-kind bed and breakfast where you’ll be able to stay in one of nine specially themed former railroad caboose cars including the “Orient Express,†“Casablanca,†“Wine Country†and the “Tropicaboose†with its second-story cupola seating for two. Relax in the cars’ Jacuzzi tub or take a short stroll to the beaches and piers of Clear Lake for some boating and fishing.
Thyme for Bed – Lowell, IN: No, you haven’t stepped into a scene from Star Wars. The monolithic dome that houses this 3-room B&B was built from scratch by owner and engineer Donald Bainbridge and his wife, Sherryl, in 1998. Its concrete and steel shell is fireproof and can sustain winds of up to 300 mph. Enjoy bird watching, fishing, hiking trails and horseback riding on their 10 country acres.
The Cajun Village Cottages – Sorrento, LA: The shotgun houses that make up this B&B got their name from the idea that if a shotgun was fired from one end, the bullet could travel straight through and exit out the other side. These structures date back more than a century and have been restored with authentic antiques and furnishings. You can shop for hand-crafted antiques, pottery and artwork at The Cajun Village and grab a bite at The Coffee House, both located next door.
Vertical Horizons Treehouse Paradise Bed & Breakfast Inn – Cave Junction, OR: Sleep amongst the birds and soar to new heights at this B&B located close to the spectacular southern Oregon coastline and the Redwood National Forest. You can immerse yourself in the sights and sounds of nature in any one of the three uniquely themed treehouses. Recreational day and night tree climbing is also available.
Schooner Manitou – Traverse City, MI: Prepare your sea legs and head for the open waters on board this 12-cabin mid-1800s style windjammer that can accommodate 24 guests. Spend the night in one of the built-in bunks or roll out a sleeping bag and catch some shut-eye under the stars. Sign up for a specialty cruise including wine and beer samplings or live entertainment on the high seas. A full breakfast cooked on a woodburning stove will greet you topside in the morning.
live blog: strap-ons
One of the chief attractions of this entire journey south of the Equator is getting the opportunity to hike the glaciers. No less than thirteen of them descend out of the Andes as part of the Patagonian Ice Field – the second largest ice field in the world after Antarctica, in case I haven’t already dropped that factoid in here somewhere. It kind of seems as if you want to hike a glacier, this is the place to do it.
Here’s a little tease of what we got up to today as part of a full-day hike across the ice: strap-on crampons. I’ll post something in more detail just as soon as I’m done with a much-needed massage.
bucket list: 2009 edition – December
Well, this is it, folks. The year in review comes to a close. But before I sign off on this little stroll down amnesia lane, there’s one last month to go.
DECEMBER
NEW PALTZ: A hiking weekend at Mohonk Mountain House proved to be the ideal “last trip” of 2009. The Victorian manor house was decked out in style to celebrate 140 years of welcoming guests to the Shawangunk Mountains as well as gearing up for the coming Christmas holiday. As the fates allowed, my hike was also greeted with a light snow which grew steadily heavier as the afternoon progressed. By the time I made it back to the house – wet and cold – everything was blanketed in a thick carpet of soft, wet snow. And while the extensive networks of trails and rock scrambles were pretty fantastic, the highlight happened near the end when I chanced upon a well-camouflaged group of deer furtively feeding in plain sight.
Photo courtesy of Matthew Sandager.
live blog: rincon de la vieja
Rincon de la Vieja is an active volcano in Guanacaste, Costa Rica, with a large number of fumaroles and hot springs on its slopes. The name means “old woman’s corner,” and according to locals it was named for an old witch on top of the mountain who sent columns of smoke into the air when she was angry. Other versions of the story clam it was named after an old woman who used to cook for weary travelers and that the smoke came from her cooking fire.
Covering 400 square kilometers, it is massive geothermal system – and quite unlike the volcanic peaks more common in the rest of the world. It is more like a mountainous volcanic plateau that stretches on for miles. As part of an even larger national park – almost 25% of Costa Rica is parkland protected by the state – it encompasses rain forest, cloud forest, and an astonishing collection of flora and fauna. Hiking Rincon is rigorous – and wet – yet the rewards are spectacular.
Here are a few highlights from today’s journey.
The first thing I saw at the start of my hike was this boa constrictor curled up in a tree about eight feet off the ground. Doubling back four hours later it was still there, soaking up some sun.
Bubbling fumaroles or vents dot the landscape, letting off steam, sulphur, and a thick white mud said to be good for the skin. Â Nearby in the trees sat an amazingly colorful rainbow-billed toucan.
The male green iguana turns a flaming orange color as the mating season begins.
Tiny orchids grow on the bark of a fallen tree. Â The park is home to over a hundred varieties of protected orchid, including the national flower of Costa Rica, the purple orchid.
The Javillo or Sandbox tree – which I cant seem to orient vertically – has a spiny bark to keep monkeys and other predators from stripping it in search of insects.
This salad plate-sized fungus is a striking brick-red color, flecked with white and yellow. Â I’m fascinated by the perfect geometry of its concentric rings, which reminded me of the rings of Saturn.
The Strangling Ficus – again, orientation issues – may be related to the common household plant, but the similarities end there. Â It is a parasite, which roots itself around a healthy tree, ultimately surrounding and killing it.