July 21, 2024

Sauteed fillet of Atlantic Coast halibut, turnips, English peas, Meyer lemon and garden tarragon.

The soft-poached Americana hen egg, with lobster Salpicon, sunchokes, Savoyard spinach and mousseline Bearnaise was a revelation of taste and textures.  Who knew a simple egg could taste so rich and complex?

New Bedford sea scallop, French Laundry garden spring onions, melted leeks, hazelnuts and black truffle.

Herb-roasted Hen-of-the-Woods mushrooms were a crunchy, woody taste sensation served with fennel bulb, San Marzano tomato compote, green garlic, Marcona almonds and sherry mignonette.

I once thought Kobe and Wagyu were indulgent grades of meat.  Then along came this tartare of Kuroge beef from Shiga – accompanied by broccolini, lily bulb, pine nuts and cherry-olive puree – and I learned they are but rank amateurs.  The fat content of the Kuroge is ridiculous.  But then again so, too, is the umami flavor.

English pea agnolotti with confit d’aile de volaille, Nantes carrots, Cipollini onions, Parmesan nuage and sauce Dijonnaise deserves some sort of prize for the most inventive use of a chicken wing.  It’s genius:  the salt, fat and crunch of the confit elevates the delicate spring flavor of the pea and carrot.

Elysian Fields Farm lamb rib-eye, lamb ribettes, pomme Boulangere, Nantes carrots, fava beans, green garlic and sauce Bordelaise.  Check out the color of that meat!  I look at this photo and I am able to conjure the taste of it all over again.

About Author


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *