The conundrum of sushi in New York City is that it covers the waterfront, so to speak: from an exorbitantly priced kaiseki degustation to anÂ all you can eat chop shop or chain, the options very often existÂ cheek by jowl. For many fish lovers the sushi experience in this cityÂ has been both dumbed down and made uncomfortably pretentious, leaving little precious middle ground.Â Behind a Mondrian-style glass facade on a nondescript block near Grand Central Station, however, there’s an antidote:Â Sushi Yasuda, an airy interior composed almost entirely of butter-colored bamboo planks. Slightly different finishes and a geometric pattern on a few of the walls, creates a sense of dimension and calm. This is most definitely not Haru. Nor is it Masa. And while the service isÂ tolerable, if just a little brusque, I’d gladly chalk that up to the vagaries of cultural difference for Chef Naomichi Yasuda’s empyrean expertise. His sushi is simple. It’s delicate balance reduced to the selection of impeccableÂ raw ingredients treated with respect. A starter ofÂ morokyu is the perfect example. What could be simpler than cucumbers with soybean paste? Yet these cukes are like none you’ve tasted before. Blanched to draw out a bit of the excess moisture, the translucent knobs become sweet, almost creamy, and an ideal foil for salty, piquant soybean paste.Â Yasuda is renowned as a tuna specialist – he typically offers seven or eight options for tuna fattiness – but theÂ hagashi toro,Â the super high-fatty tuna taken mainly from the top of the tail, drops like rain onto my tongue. I’ve never had sashimi like this before. So, too, the giant clam, often tough and chewy but here as sinewy and delicately fibrous as young artichoke. King salmon, in both red and white varieties is so silken and pure of flavor that I wish I had ordered more. In fact, I wish I hadn’t made theatre plans and could – asÂ traditionÂ dictates – move on to a course of sushi with rice. (I’ve eaten all my fish without pausing to dip into the chef’s specialÂ shoyu, or soy sauce!) When the bill arrives – with a pristine box of bamboo toothpicks – I appreciate that I’m paying to have eaten something special without the guilt that comes from seeing a comma in the total. On one hand, Sushi Yasuda isn’t your quotidian fish bar, but on the other, itÂ shouldn’tÂ be restricted solely to special occasions or expense accounts either. Three cheers for the middle ground; it’sÂ the closest you’ll get to an authentic TokyoÂ dinner in the Big Apple: refined, informal, wonderfully sublime and worth every penny.