eggs to order

Even with expectations of a Spartan culinary spread, the bush breakfast promised during this morning’s game drive sounded too cool to pass up – and well worth the extra-early rise. A thermos of coffee arrived at my tent with the sunrise and next thing you know we were off in search of wildebeest. “In search” might be a bit of a misnomer, however. Across the river from Sala’s Camp a mega-herd had come to graze, which made the whole enterprise less White Hunter, Black Heart and more Jeeves and Wooster as we, in effect, toured the great herd. Nevertheless, driving in a hundred thousand-strong herd of animals brings is its own thrills and sense of adventure. Alighting on a large rock in the middle of the herd, the driver and tracker set up a proper table, chairs, a wash basin and I breakfasted on fresh fruit salad, yogurt, muffins and good, strong coffee amidst the most unbelievable surroundings. When the driver asked me how I liked my eggs I thought he was joking – until I noticed the sweet smell of bacon and sausage coming from the direction of the Land Rover, where they had hooked up a small gas stove. Who was I to argue? I went for two: sunny-side up, please.

 

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video: an ordinary death

I’ve seen more than my fair share of cringe-inducing blood and guts and gore so far. Death is everywhere. (So, too, are leftovers.) All of which made the sight of a wildebeest dying a peaceable death that much more touching and extraordinary. Clearly he’s not injured, yet the shallow pants of breath signal an animal not long for this world. Thankfully the scent of the beast had yet to be picked up by scavengers. Driving off I couldn’t help but hope the scene would stay that way until the wildebeest drew its final quiet breath.

 

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big bird


I think because the only time I can recall seeing an ostrich in anything resembling a native environment was on a farm in Aruba where they were being raised for meat, the sight of one crossing my field of vision, close to a family of Thomson’s gazelle and assorted wildebeest, seemed as odd as if I’d seen one strutting down the West Side Highway. Even more shocking was the bright pink color of this particular gentleman’s legs and neck. Nothing to be alarmed about, however; I learned that a male in heat turns pink to stand out against the green of the plains, allowing potential partners to easily spot him, like a one-man red light district. Once a female signals even passing interest, Pinky will begin an elaborate courtship dance in an effort to woo a mate. And in a relationship story all too common, once he’s had his way with her he’ll go back to being his boring old black and white self.

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video: an unexpected crossing

 

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the great migration

The Great Migration is one of the most awe-inspiring events in nature. Each July millions of ungainly, loping wildebeest migrate north from the Serengeti plains in search of fresh pasture in the Masai Mara. And because there is safety in numbers, along come thousands of zebra too, and antelopes of almost infinite variety: gazelles, topi, hartebeest, impala and elands. It is an awesome sight to come over the crest of an escarpment and see nothing but wildebeest as far as the horizon. Even more spectacular, if you’re lucky enough, is the sight of a river crossing. Lemming-like the animals gather by the thousands at the river’s edge, alternately turning back and peering into the water as if in search of crocodiles or worse, lions.  It looks like nothing will happen til without warning one brave creature leaps into the water and suddenly all you can hear are the thunder of hooves as en masse the herd charges across the river. It’s raw and ungraceful, this desperate race to the other side; but the return to dry land heralds, momentarily anyway, a respite from death and a fresh pasture on which to graze.

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