When chef Enrique Olvera opened Pujol in Mexico City’sÂ upscale Polanco neighborhood almost 14 years ago, the budget was so small that his wife had to paint the walls. Things have changed at what is now widely considered Mexicoâ€™s best restaurant, with its platoon of 27 cooks. The subtly lit interior is like a fine suit: understated and elegant.Â Service is hushed and artful – if just a bit quirky – so you can focus the food.Â One of the leading exponents of new Mexican gastronomy, OlveraÂ is deeply immersed in his cultural legacy. Dried insects feature heavily, like in the elotitos tatemados, a take on Mexican street food: smoked baby corn glazed with coffee mayonnaise and dusted in salty ant powder. Brilliantly served in a hollowed out gourd, it’s an addictive umami snack. In a minimalist version of the salad course, acidity and herbal freshness are explored in foraged wild greens, pinon, and native seasonings.Â Olvera continuously re-invents traditional dishes and their presentationâ€”you might not recognize something as a flauta, a taco, or a tamale, but with an artist’s flair for combining regional ingredients and modern techniques Olvera lays a foundation and builds on it to create something new. If Pujol is any indication of how sophisticated (yet wholly unpretentious) fine-dining in Mexico can be, I’m in for a whole lot of sensory overload.