papadakis

Papadakis - risotto with sea urchin and cockles

One of the many things I’ve so enjoyed about being in Greece is the quality of the seafood. (I should really use the plural because, as I’ve discovered, my nephew is as gastronomically adventurous as myself.) Besides fish, Athenians know how to cook all those other devilishly difficult sea creatures with a simplicity which brings out the full force of their distinctive flavors. So on this, our last night in Greece, I thought it only fitting that we splurge and have dinner at what is considered by many to be one of the best seafood restaurants in the city: Papadakis, in the upscale shopping district of Kolonaki. Sitting outdoors on a quiet, tree-lined block we leisurely munched our way through a seafood feast of lemon-dressed crab and baby lettuces, octopus simmered in red wine and honey, orzo pasta cooked with giant langoustines, and – kudos to the kid – shellfish risotto with sea urchin. A fitting end to the evening was delivered to the table following coffee and dessert: a decanter of homemade strawberry liqueur. Despite my best attempts on this trip to get a taste of alcohol to pass his lips, my nephew has assiduously stuck with Coca-Cola. Tonight, however, he couldn’t resist – and neither could I.

Papadakis - crab salad

Papadakis - octopus in wine

Papadakis - langoutsines and orzo

Papadakis - a digestif

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last supper at le bernardin

When friend and photographer Lyn Hughes called inviting to me a literal last supper at Le Bernardin last weekend I didn’t hesitate. I also didn’t bother taking out my camera phone – when you’re with the court photographer it’s not only considered unseemly but redundant. Rather I relaxed – if you can call it that – over a leisurely orgasmic eight courses of Michelin three-star cuisine at its finest. Eric Ripert and Maguy la Coze’s seafood temple is shuttering for a summer renovation rumored to be costing in the neighborhood of a few million dollars – its first since bursting on the New York dining scene 25 years ago. (Not that you’d guess the old girl’s age from her perfectly pristine interiors) Here then a tasting menu of Lyn’s images from our Last Supper to get you through the August drought.  You can see plenty more of her food porn on the restaurant’s website, too. Or better still, book a September table now and beat what’s sure to be an onslaught of old flames out to check if the collar still matches the cuffs

Fresh off a plane Chef Ripert nevertheless made a point of greeting every table.

Progressive Tasting of Kumamoto Oyster “en gelée”; from Light and Refreshing to Complex and Spicy.

Seared Langoustine; Mâche and Wild Mushroom Salad, Shaved Foie Gras, White Balsamic Vinaigrette.

Barely Cooked Wild Salmon; Asparagus “Risotto”, Smoked Pistachio Pesto.

Crispy Black Bass; Lup Cheong and Beansprout, Mini Pork Buns, Hoisin – Plum Jus.

Toasting the end of just another night’s service – and a month-long vacation.

The morning after: let the demolition begin.

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