nahm

A few years ago at The Halkin in London, I had the pleasure of enjoying a most extravagant lunch at Nahm, the only Thai restaurant in the world to be bested with a Michelin star. Australian chef David Thompson is an accidental authority on Thai cuisine – a chance holiday in Bangkok ignited a culinary obsession – and his first cookbook, Thai Food, is a meticulous investigation into the multifarious flavors of the kingdom as well as a bible of food porn for gourmands. The success of an additional outpost of the restaurant in Thailand was recently realized earlier this year when it was named one the The 50 Best Restaurants in the World, so naturally this second Nahm moved high atop my list of must-eats in Bangkok. More casual than what you’d find in London, it was nevertheless equally meticulous, with layer upon layer of flavors surprising the palate on a continuous loop. Rarely does a Thai meal have a repetition of tastes, so a curry, a salad, a relish, some soup and a stir-fry all combine to make a varied dining experience. This isn’t food you shovel in with a pair of chopsticks, however; chef Thompson’s dishes – complex and floridly herbaceous – demand you take the time to savor each bite from the chew to the swallow. Served Thai-style, meaning family style and all at once, it also makes for one fragrant and heady feast.

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last supper at le bernardin

When friend and photographer Lyn Hughes called inviting to me a literal last supper at Le Bernardin last weekend I didn’t hesitate. I also didn’t bother taking out my camera phone – when you’re with the court photographer it’s not only considered unseemly but redundant. Rather I relaxed – if you can call it that – over a leisurely orgasmic eight courses of Michelin three-star cuisine at its finest. Eric Ripert and Maguy la Coze’s seafood temple is shuttering for a summer renovation rumored to be costing in the neighborhood of a few million dollars – its first since bursting on the New York dining scene 25 years ago. (Not that you’d guess the old girl’s age from her perfectly pristine interiors) Here then a tasting menu of Lyn’s images from our Last Supper to get you through the August drought.  You can see plenty more of her food porn on the restaurant’s website, too. Or better still, book a September table now and beat what’s sure to be an onslaught of old flames out to check if the collar still matches the cuffs

Fresh off a plane Chef Ripert nevertheless made a point of greeting every table.

Progressive Tasting of Kumamoto Oyster “en gelée”; from Light and Refreshing to Complex and Spicy.

Seared Langoustine; Mâche and Wild Mushroom Salad, Shaved Foie Gras, White Balsamic Vinaigrette.

Barely Cooked Wild Salmon; Asparagus “Risotto”, Smoked Pistachio Pesto.

Crispy Black Bass; Lup Cheong and Beansprout, Mini Pork Buns, Hoisin – Plum Jus.

Toasting the end of just another night’s service – and a month-long vacation.

The morning after: let the demolition begin.

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