May 28, 2024

Restaurant Botín doesn’t just claim to be the oldest restaurant in the world, it’s got the Guinness World Book of Records seal to back it up.  Ordinarily such a boast would have me charging in the opposite direction quicker than you could say toro but I have been reading Hemingway in Madrid and the final scene of The Sun Also Rises takes place over a suckling pig at Botín.  Something about the sudden confluence made dinner a much more authentic prospect than previously imagined.  And an appealing one, too, despite having to dine at the unfashionably early hour – by Madrileño standards anyway – of 8PM. Any mention of the establishment, from literary to culinary, takes pains to highlight the cochinillo, or roast suckling pig, and you’d be a fool not to try it.  Cooked in wood-fired ovens in the vaulted cellar it’s yet one more elegant Spanish ode to the tastiness of the pig.

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