Built onÂ theÂ westÂ recessesÂ of Mirabello Bay,Â Aghios NikolaosÂ is one of the most picturesque harbors in Crete. The circular shaped Lake Voulismeni is its most prominent – and charming – feature. (Legend suggests the goddesses Athena andÂ ArtemisÂ bathed in its waters.) Connected to the sea by a straight channel, it’s surrounded by a horseshoe of red rocks, feathery pine trees, and rumor has it really good shopping. All of which leaves me with a pressing dilemma: to eat or to shop?