Built on the west recesses of Mirabello Bay, Aghios Nikolaos is one of the most picturesque harbors in Crete. The circular shaped Lake Voulismeni is its most prominent – and charming – feature. (Legend suggests the goddesses Athena and Artemis bathed in its waters.) Connected to the sea by a straight channel, it’s surrounded by a horseshoe of red rocks, feathery pine trees, and rumor has it really good shopping. All of which leaves me with a pressing dilemma: to eat or to shop?