July 21, 2024

Small plates that’ll have you thinking “Korean tapas” are the highlight at Danji, the friendly and unassuming restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen that’s mixing authentic flavors with French technique in a space that feels strangely similar to the inside of a Scandinavian sauna. If you’re early enough to beat the pre-theater rush, sidle up to the blond wood bar and take advantage of the flood of natural light over a plate of melt in your mouth panko-crusted tofu with ginger and scallion. The rear of the room is not nearly as spacious but at least it’s dimly lit, which is to your advantage when the sticky, savory, finger lickin’ good Korean fried chicken arrives. (It’s cleverly listed on the menu as KFC.) Filet mignon bulgogi sliders topped with pickled cucumber on a brioche bun are easily the best mini-sandwich in town; depending on your point of view, two on a plate is either a blessing or just downright cruel. I subscribe to the latter and heartily advise you to do yourself a favor: order seconds while you can. Once word gets out there’ll be Shake Shack-style queues snaking down 52nd Street.

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