Even by New York standards it’s small and the tables are squished cheek by jowl. The uninspired decor is vaguely reminiscent of the Brady Bunch rec room. Service is anything but fluid and the wait staff are notoriously difficult to understand. Still for lovers of sushi there are few meals that compare to one which involves the sublime wizardry of the blade-wielding shokunin at Sushi of Gari, unassumingly tucked away on an Upper East Side side street. Not just the most meticulous kaiseki in town, it’s also – shhh! – the most reasonably priced, too – though you might not have a clue what it is you’re eating. Nevermind, it’s all so artfully done. And chopstick-licking delicious.