Among the cafes and pastelerias in Sintra, tiny Piriquita is a legend. It somehow manages to accommodate a non-stop bustling trade in the center of town while maintaining a relaxed and congenial atmosphere. Most visitors opt to get their pastry to take away, but I sat at a table to watch the parade of people – and a random pigeon that flew in looking for table crumbs – come and go. It’s also a bargain: two cortado and two queijadas for a whopping 3 euro left me with enough change to try the almond pastry, travesseiros, and a walnut-topped mystery ball that tasted like farina soaked in honey. I got the feeling they would have let me nurse my espresso for hours, had I desired. But enough with the coffees and pastries – there’s still far too much to see.