David Thompson has literally written the book on Thai food in the UK, so I was excited to finally try nahm, his Michelin-starred restaurant – the only Michelin-starred Thai in Europe, by the way – at London’s posh Halkin Hotel in Belgravia. As expected, it did not disappoint – especially as on the advice of the waiter I opted for the nahm arharn, a traditional Thai meal in which a selection dishes designed to whet the palate are served family-style. It’s a luxury lunch to be sure but well worth it: Thompson reveals the subtle complexity of Thai food. I’d seriously rank it up there with French and Chinese as one of the great cuisines of the world.
Another amuse: a chiffonade of vegetables, jalapeno peppers and coriander wrapped in spicy leaves and eaten like a wrap.
Geng Gwia Warn Plaa Grapong Tort: a green curry of crispy sea bass with white turmeric and Thai basil.
Cucumber relish: the perfect sweet and sour antidote to the fiery curry.
Yam Pak: a salad of assorted vegetables dressed with tamarind, palm sugar and sesame seeds.