Despite its roots in restauranteur Danny Meyer’s nostalgia for St. Louis, Shake Shack has blossomed into an iconic New York institution. (Look to the lines of European tourists for confirmation of that.) And while the superlative burgers and frozen custard seem to get all the love, it’s the frankfurters that make me weepy. Split and grilled crisp on a flat top, these idealized wieners are a nod to the Shack’s beginnings as a humble hot dog cart. My particular favorites? The Dapper Dog, topped with cheddar and American cheese sauce and crispy ale-marinated shallots, and the Shack-cago, dragged through the garden with relish, onion, cucumber, pickle, tomato, hot pepper, and celery salt. Who needs beans.