As the weather cools, some start swooning for sunnier climates. Not me. If anything, this moody, existential weather gets me into a Parisian state of mind that practically cries out for long walks through the leaves, mindless introspection, and the earthy stew of duck confit, white beans and Toulouse saucisson known as cassoulet. Named for the conical earthenware stewpot in which it’s cooked, this is peasant food taken to new levels of multi-day, slow-cooked, buttery goose fat-infused perfection. Bolfinger, Brasserie Balzar, Au Fins Gourmet, La Coupole……….ahhhh, Paris; if you’re lucky enough to be there now, bring me back some duck fat! Til then, a boy can dream, can’t he?