By the time I left Cabo da Roca the light was fading fast, so it was no surprise when the bus dropped me off in Cascais in total darkness. My guidebook, alas, neglected to highlight this little seaside town, so I was in the swim without a map, so to speak. I had heard that Cascais was practically a suburb of Lisbon; a charming Hampton-esque escape for the moneyed classes. But in the dark – without a map or a clue – the charms of town were difficult to pin down. After a few minutes walk, I stumbled across the train station and yippie: a large map was posted on a billboard outside. Thanks to the trusty iPhone I was able to snap a picture and use it to navigate my way towards the seafront and the pedestrianized part of town. There I had the fresh fish dinner I’d been craving: a whole snapper baked in salt, along with two bottles of amazingly cheap – and delicious – wine. Belly sated, my curiosity for Cascais, however, wasn’t exactly satisfied. One day I’ll have to return and see it with the lights on.