Tucked behind the busy plaza of Puerta del Sol, Casa Labra has taken on an almost mythical status in the history of Madrid. A clandestine backroom meeting here in 1879 led to the founding of the Spanish Socialist Party, which today rules modern Spain. And despite its lefty leanings, it somehow managed to be one of the few tabernas to escape Franco’s sweeping remodeling of the plaza, so there remains an authenticity and character to it all – like the bacalao, which is still sold by the piece at a small stand in the front bar. Served with a toothpick the lightly fried salt cod also goes great with a crisp glass of beer.
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